- Friday, November 1, 2013

Jess's Inspired: Now & Then

From intern Jessica:

As I have said before fashion is constantly revolving. Rather than reinvent the wheel, many designers are putting a modern spin on vintage looks. For this post we are going to revisit wedding fashion of the decades.

1910- Late Edwardian Style- During this time silhouettes were changing. Waistlines were slowly rising. Gowns were becoming more fitted boasting of close fitting sleeves and high collars. I chose an Anna Maier gown. This elegant dress features a full front pleated skirt. The high collar, sleeves and lace design is reminiscent of the Edwardian fashion. Having the buttons down the front give it a modern twist.

1920- Swinging 20's-  There was yet another shift in silhouettes, now becoming more boyishly flat and linear. To offset the boyish look, gowns were made from silk, tulle and lace. To give the gowns an air of femininity they were embellished with embroidery, ribbons and elaborate beadwork. For this era I chose a gown from the collection of a newcomer to the bridal world, Naeem Khan. This gown with its high sheer neckline, sleeves and art deco details is beautiful modern classic.

1930- Great Depression Era- With the depression hitting hard many people turned to films for relief from their everyday strife. The big screen looks eventually began to influence wedding fashion, with sexy yet conservative gowns. Draping the bride in supple, yet flowing fabric and the introduction of the halter gown was the start of sexualizing the woman. During this time costume jewelry was heavily utilized. Dress clips, fur and jewels were the ultimate accessories. Reem Acra captures this era perfectly, with the sexy silhouette, fluid material and beaded belt.

1940- World War II- During war-time, fashion willingly made concessions with fabrics. With silk being in high demand for parachutes and cotton for duffels, there was no question that rayon would be the choice material. Gowns of this era were influenced by military silhouettes, with their broad shoulders and slim waistlines. Illusion necklines were introduced. Sleeves were long and usually came to a wedding point. I just love my grandmother's wedding dress...yes I used my grandmother's wedding photo for this post. If she still had this dress I would have worn it for my own wedding. Luckily Monique Lhuillier designed a gown for her 2014 collection that has similar features of all lace, a natural waistline, sleeves and a fuller skirt.

1950- Post War- Fuller skirts, soft shoulders, pinched waists, pointed bossom and sky-high heels were trademarks of this decade's wedding fashion. The famous hour glass silhouette was emphasized with hoop skirts and crinolines. Gone were the fabric restrictions, lace was the preferred material. Two piece gowns were introduced with removable boleros. Many styles of this decade were chaste and virginal, sporting peter pan collars, 3/4 sleeves and elaborate beading. Sarah Jassir's tea length gown is the epitome of the 50's fashion. The high bateau neckline, adorable bow at the natural waist, full crinoline skirt and vintage gloves. LOVE!

1960- Peace and Love- With the country in uproar over a war that was unwanted there was a major shift in wedding wear. Replacing the full look of the 50's was romantic maxi gowns. With empire waistline, flowing bell sleeves, flower detailing, removable trains, weddings of this decade were natural and carefree. Brides often wore flats or married barefoot. For this era I chose a Claire Pettibone gown. The flowing maxi dress with lace sleeves, and scalloped bottom could be a flower child's dream gown. I adore the flower belt. Add a head wreath and you are ready to walk the aisle.

1970- Disco Fever- After the popularization of Saturday Night Fever, material shifted to a stretch knit fabric. Gowns of this era were romantic with a slight goddess look featuring empire waistlines, sexy draping and lace embelishments. Looking for individuality and exclusivity many looked buy a designer name rather than design. At this time what you wore represented your social standing. The sheer mid-drift, breathable material and the fact that it is completely beaded, makes this Houghton gown disco ready.

1980- Woman Power- While women of the workforce were donning boxy suits with shoulder pads, giving them a reverse triangle look similar to a man's physique, the bridal fashion remained soft. However this is one era I would not go back to with its massive bubble sleeves, bibbed bodices and dust ruffle skirts. My mother's wedding gown was not hideous, in fact I used one of her lace appliques to wrap my bridal bouquet, as my something old. She did have a dust ruffle and bibbed bodice, not features I think should be brought back to the fashion world. I could have gone so many ways with this decade but Rivini killed it with this pantsuit. Looks like pantsuits did make it into bridal fashion! (P.S. isn't my dad's stache rad?)

What decade is your favorite? Would you wear any of these modern classics for your big day?

Big thank you to www.vintagegown.com for your knowledge in historical fashions! Check out Women's Wear Daily to see the 2014 collections.

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